How to Read a Front End Alignment Report

Username Post: Domicile front alignment 101! Pic! (Topic#108694)
CJS57 
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08-04-05 02:59 PM - Post#754184    

Well I got my nerve upwards to align my front wheels at habitation. My left front wheel had noticeable + camber. I made a calculation that the ane degree of camber (or castor) is egual to about .45 inch every bit measured and shown in the shop manual. So this way I tin convert degrees to inches, I can measure inches easier than degrees.

The manufactory store manual says the Camber Spec is (positive) 1/2 degree, +/- 1/2 degree. I measured and calculated my camber with the set-up shown, that wheel was positive 1/2 caste. Within spec, only it doesn't expect to good to the centre.

I wanted about 0 degrees of camber. I purchased shims at at the motorcar parts shop and again figured about a 3/sixteen" shim. Put the shims in and it is now measuring 0 degrees camber, merely what I wanted. By the way, maybe I can get a picayune more than, even a lilliputian negative on the camber, will this make the automobile corner fifty-fifty better?

At present a Question on castor: Most people say get as much Positive as you can. And then I can but add another say 1/8" shim to the front side of the A arm and go more brush? Practice I have to do both drivers and passenger sides equally? How practice DIY'er measure this anyhow? Or practice I have to measure information technology at all? Finally, how thick can the shim pack get and yet be rubber? My rider side already has most three/8" or so total.

1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp, 58,000 original miles, original never rebuilt 283 engine, 245hp, Dual Fours, Tremec TKO 600 5-speed, 3.70 gears, AACA Senior in 1985
previous trifives:
1955 Belair Convt
1956 210 2dr Sdn
1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp


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67SS427 
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Re: Home front stop alignment 101! Picture show!
08-04-05 03:51 PM - Post#754185    
In response to CJS57

Yes, a little negative camber would improve cornering a flake, but 0 is practiced.

Y'all are backwards on how to accommodate for positive caster. You should increment positive castor past decreasing the number of shims on the front and/or increase the number of shims on the rear bolt. So you end upwardly with more than rear shim thickness than front.
But how to measure pulley at domicile without a tool for that purpose, I don't know.
I've seen pulley/camber habitation alignment tools, besides as tools for toe adjustment in magazines. I'm pretty sure I saw some at The Eastwood Company.


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chevynut 
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Re: Abode forepart end alignment 101! Picture!
08-04-05 04:30 PM - Post#754186    
In response to 67SS427
Quote:

You lot are backwards on how to adjust for positive caster. You should increment positive castor by decreasing the number of shims on the front and/or increase the number of shims on the rear bolt. So you lot end up with more rear shim thickness than front.

Steve, you're the one who'due south backwards . Positive caster means the upper balljoint is BEHIND the lower balljoint to slant the spindle back at the top. That takes more than shims in the front of the a-arm than the back.

'56 Nomad, C4 Vette F&R suspension, Ramjet 502, Viper T56 6 speed See My Nomad Build
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Re: Domicile front end alignment 101! Moving picture!
08-04-05 04:35 PM - Post#754187    
In response to 67SS427

Virtually caster measurements are made by turning the wheels 20


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Rick_L 
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Re: Dwelling front cease alignment 101! Picture!
08-04-05 04:42 PM - Mail service#754188    
In response to chevynut

Chevynut, Steve's correct. The shaft that has the shims on it is parallel to the direction you desire to move the ball articulation, but the bolts and shims are at xc


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Re: Dwelling front end alignment 101! Picture show!
08-04-05 07:19 PM - Post#754189    
In response to Rick_L
Quote:

increasing caster. Same with adding a shim at the rear.

that'south a relief!

Aquired a '56 2dr hdtp BelAir on half dozen/9/05!
Link to my pics!
-pecker


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Re: Home front terminate alignment 101! Movie!
08-05-05 02:06 AM - Post#754190    
In response to CJS57

My question is... Why the heck are you even farting with something like this yourself when a front end shop will align your front properly for about $sixty.00. Judging past the looks of your car surely you can afford the $60. And it ain't similar you live in bum puck egypt where at that place aren't any front cease shops.

Please don't take this the wrong way, only I other then looking for something to do for giggles, I don't get it. No offense and no insults intended.


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chevynut 
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Re: Habitation forepart end alignment 101! Pic!
08-05-05 05:54 AM - Mail service#754191    
In response to Rick_L

Okay, Steve IS right. I was thinking about my C4 front end cease where the shaft is OUTBOARD of the upright and the shims go exterior of the upright. My bad!!!

'56 Nomad, C4 Vette F&R intermission, Ramjet 502, Viper T56 half dozen speed Encounter My Nomad Build
'56 BelAir 2DR Sedan in waiting
'01 Porsche Boxster S
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loudpedal 
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Re: Dwelling house forepart end alignment 101! Motion-picture show!
08-05-05 07:01 AM - Post#754192    
In response to CJS57

By your pix your doing information technology right.

ANYONE can farm work out ..merely whats the fun in that?

If you desire to get fancy replace the carpenters level with a level that reads digitally in degrees. Smart level makes an inexpensive production. Make sure your block of wood is exactly the same thickness top to bottom and the screws bolts are identical length in from the face of the level. Make sure the floor is level FIRST....otherwise your readings will err.

Longacre (and others) have magnetic caster/camber chimera readout gages that are under $100. The toll keeps falling.

""""""I wanted nearly 0 degrees of slant."""""

Fine.

""""""""""Past the mode, maybe I tin become a niggling more, fifty-fifty a piddling negative on the camber, will this make the car corner even better?""""

zero or - 1/iv* or so. for street driving the tire contact patch and so equally to vesture the tire evenly is more important than camber proceeds.

""""""""Nigh people say get every bit much Positive as yous can."""""""

Truthful...upward to about three* or with super wide tires mayb 4*. You are limited however as you cant remove enough shims on the front upper stud after u prepare the camber, to become much more than about 1.5 to 2* pos castor.

"""""""" brush? Do I have to do both drivers and rider sides equally? """"""""""

Well not actually....only in a perfect world. That is to say if your chassis is EXACTLY square and every dimension is .000" +.000" -.000" simply and so what you do to one side you can do to the other. That is why you
measure each side after each change. In other words you lot cant add a 1/6" shim to one side thats needed and assume the other side volition be right with the aforementioned thickness shim.

"""""""Finally, how thick tin can the shim pack go and still be prophylactic? """""""

You want the upper a-arm attaching nuts tite to nearly 50'# and minimum one thread on the stud(due south) showing.


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Grey Headed Mule 
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Re: Home forepart alignment 101! Film!
08-05-05 07:59 AM - Postal service#754193    
In response to loudpedal
Quote:

If you want to get fancy replace the carpenters level with a level that reads digitally in degrees. Smart level makes an inexpensive product. Make certain your block of wood is exactly the same thickness top to bottom and the screws bolts are identical length in from the face of the level. Make certain the floor is level Kickoff....otherwise your readings will err.

And buy a new brick!!

Mule

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Jims56chevy 
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Re: Home front end alignment 101! Picture!
08-05-05 09:17 AM - Post#754194    
In response to Rick_L

Tin can I jump in here with a question?Thanks.If my front end is aligned, and I wanted to add caster, could I then just add shims to the rear bolt of the control arm?But would this effect any other part of the alignment?
Jims56

56 210 2dr


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Re: Abode front end alignment 101! Picture!
08-05-05 09:41 AM - Mail service#754195    
In response to Jims56chevy
Quote:

Can I leap in here with a question?Cheers.If my forepart terminate is aligned, and I wanted to add pulley, could I then just add shims to the rear bolt of the control arm?But would this consequence any other part of the alignment?
Jims56

Yeah, it would pull in the peak of the tire and would give you lot more than negative camber. Information technology might also touch toe-in.

'56 Nomad, C4 Vette F&R interruption, Ramjet 502, Viper T56 six speed Come across My Nomad Build
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Rick_L 
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Re: Domicile front end alignment 101! Picture show!
08-05-05 10:06 AM - Post#754196    
In response to Jims56chevy

Jim, to keep from irresolute the camber equally you try to go more pulley, you want to add together a shim at the rear and remove the same thickness shim at the front. On 55-57's doing this shouldn't change toe-in enough to worry most it.


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Jims56chevy 
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Re: Home front alignment 101! Motion-picture show!
08-05-05 x:22 AM - Post#754197    
In response to Rick_L

Thank you guys.
Jims56

56 210 2dr


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2DrPostPhil 
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Re: Dwelling house forepart end alignment 101! Picture!
08-05-05 xi:28 AM - Post#754198    
In response to CJS57

Nope, you take shims out of the dorsum and put shims in the front that'll give you the caster you're looking for, while keeping your camber pretty shut to where you have it already.
have fun and good luck

stafford


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Re: Home front end alignment 101! Motion picture!
08-05-05 12:15 PM - Mail service#754199    
In response to Rick_L

Ok guys, both of you can't exist right.Lets take vote.

Jims56

56 210 2dr


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Re: Dwelling house front stop alignment 101! Pic!
08-05-05 02:forty PM - Post#754200    
In response to 67SS427

okay let me rephrase my statement. To get the caster you desire you have to move the top ball articulation to the rear. right now I'k non certain if you put shims in or have them out just merely motility the ball articulation to the rear for more than caster
I wasn't trying to come across as a smart elic. I repent if thats the way information technology sounded.
Stafford


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Rick_L 
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Re: Home forepart end alignment 101! Movie!
08-05-05 02:51 PM - Post#754201    
In response to 2DrPostPhil

Phil, on the 55-57 forepart the shaft is on the within of the frame mount and y'all take shims off the front end and add them to the rear to move the ball articulation back. As Chevynut showed in his photograph the C4 Corvette (and others) have the shaft outside the frame mount and you add shims at the forepart and remove them at the rear to move the brawl joint back and go more positive caster. The camber aligning is as well reversed on that type.

1 of the archetype problems with 55-57 cars is that you frequently run out of shims earlier you lot can get the caster adjustment y'all want, since you have to remove them. This is due to the manner they made the crossmember and sometimes they sag making it worse. On the Vette style if the crossmember sags you add more shims, and so this is not nearly the problem.

No problem, it's easy to go it backwards, and the fact that some are one way and others the other is disruptive.


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CJS57 
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Re: Home front end end alignment 101! Motion picture!
08-05-05 03:08 PM - Postal service#754202    
In response to Rick_L

My full shim situation now. Camber is 0 left and 0 right

left---- right

3/32---- 12/32

3/32---- 12/32

Proposed to go more Castor:

0------9/32

6/32---15/32

Right at present my Castor is unknown but believed equal on each side. I am assumming that this will requite me better steering wheel "return" and ameliorate high speed tracking, simply steering may get a picayune harder. Is this all correct?

1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp, 58,000 original miles, original never rebuilt 283 engine, 245hp, Dual Fours, Tremec TKO 600 5-speed, iii.70 gears, AACA Senior in 1985
previous trifives:
1955 Belair Convt
1956 210 2dr Sdn
1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp


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Re: Dwelling front end alignment 101! Picture!
08-05-05 05:13 PM - Post#754203    
In response to 2DrPostPhil

Quote"Nope, you have shims out of the back and put shims in the front end that'll give y'all the caster you're looking for, while keeping your camber pretty close to where you have it already."
Wrong, you have it astern. (To increase caster) the shims are between the arm and the frame on the within. You remove the front and add together to the rear evenly to keep slant the same...

Any man that thinks he is too old to larn new things, probably always was....


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Re: Abode front finish alignment 101! Film!
08-05-05 11:20 PM - Mail#754204    
In response to doobie'south taxiola

Doobie...agreed. Goodyear and a few bucks later, and the auto tracks expressionless on.

Project56-10

Ken


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Rick_L 
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Re: Dwelling house front end end alignment 101! Motion picture!
08-06-05 01:26 AM - Post#754205    
In response to CJS57

"Correct now my Castor is unknown but believed equal on each side. I am assumming that this will requite me ameliorate steering wheel "return" and amend loftier speed tracking, but steering may go a picayune harder. Is this all correct?"

Aye, bold your pulley carve up is correct before any changes, that will give y'all what you described.


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CJS57 
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Re: Home front end alignment 101! Picture!
08-06-05 06:38 AM - Post#754206    
In response to 2DrPostPhil

Doobie, I know information technology is easier to go to the store, and I accept a bang-up i local. But I similar to know about everything on my car every bit much equally possible. So by doing everything myself I become in touch with the car just that much closer to how it performs.
It is like doing a tune up on the engine yourself and finding ways to become more horsepower rather than a shop but tuning to manufacturing plant specs like a store would do, and not getting as much power.
Case: by doing my ain shocks myself, I determined that the machine rides and handles best with modern nitrogen filled shocks on the front, but it likes quondam fashion oil filled shocks on the rear. If I would have merely had a shop put on some shocks, I would have never found that out.
In that location is something else. When I tell my car savvy friends that I did my forepart end alignment at home, myself, well watching there jaw drib is priceless.

1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp, 58,000 original miles, original never rebuilt 283 engine, 245hp, Dual Fours, Tremec TKO 600 5-speed, 3.70 gears, AACA Senior in 1985
previous trifives:
1955 Belair Convt
1956 210 2dr Sdn
1957 Belair 2Dr Hdtp


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HYPR 
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Re: Dwelling house front stop alignment 101! Picture!
08-10-05 07:01 AM - Postal service#754207    
In response to loudpedal
Quote:

Longacre (and others) have magnetic caster/camber chimera readout gages that are under $100. The price keeps falling.

Ok, I am now getting it. Why the heck couldn't y'all fabricate a base made from a piece of steel angle (assuming this would be perfectly flat drill and install adjustable feet and then that you tin adjust the level. And then bolt on a perpendicular arm with adjustability allowing you to set the horizontal level square and install an upper and lower long bolt to set against the wheel edges and so employ a pinion bending as a guage. From the way I expect at it this would let you to have a perfectly level and square frame for any surface and let you to read the measurements in degrees. Am I missing something hither? Is it really that simple?
Bob

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Rick_L 
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Re: Home front end alignment 101! Picture!
08-x-05 08:09 AM - Mail service#754208    
In response to HYPR

Bob, that's pretty much how I did the i I built for my Nova. The only other bargain is y'all need to use it on a level floor. The psuedo turntables tin can assist too, although I didn't use them at first. Also, I made some marks on the floor for location (my garage isn't all that level everywhere) and the xx


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loudpedal 
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Re: Habitation forepart end alignment.....and encephalon surgery
08-10-05 08:22 AM - Post#754209    
In response to HYPR

"""""" then utilize a pinion angle as a guage. """""

you tin can only come shut. Usually you cant read closer than one/2 degree......but if shut counts go for it.

there comes a time tho that you arespinning your wheels in designing and fabbing something up when a "prepare made slice" is really more than cost constructive.....in this case the SmartCamber tool....(smartracingproducts.com) or Longacre or Intercomp magnetic/bubble cuff.

IF Reaction Technology in the Southward Due east is nonetheless in business concern they used to brand a Cheap caster slant tool..a sail of aluminum with 2 pendulum strings and caste markings...

Side by side time your in the hardware store take a look at DIGITAL carpenters levels and too the Smart Level digital module.


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HYPR 
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Re: Home front end end alignment.....and encephalon surgery
08-10-05 x:37 AM - Post#754210    
In response to loudpedal

I looked at the Smart Racing site and decided to order i of their Smart Camber tools. As I read your post I likewise realized that setting the toe is a snap if you set up a grid using a laser level and carpeter'south square.
Really elementary, ready the steering bike to centre rough prepare the toe then using a long department of angle steel set a line from front to rear and marker the floor with a chaulk line or wax marker. Repeat the process on the other side of the auto and mensurate the distance between the two forepart tires at the rear and the front end of the tires. If they are equal then the toe is set up at 0 if you want a slight toe in and then the distance between the front of the tires volition exist closer then the rear measurement. For toe out simply opposite would be true wider in the forepart then the rear. I would assume that with the wheels dead fifty-fifty and parallel to the lines at the front end and rear and the steering bike straight so the toe would set at 0 (assuming of course the rear is square already).
Bob

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Re: Home front end alignment.....and brain surgery
08-10-05 11:22 AM - Post#754211    
In response to HYPR

Bob, ironically, "Smart Racing" uses "Smart Tools" for their stuff and actually sells just the digital protractor, which is shown at the lower left of their homepage. They are not the manufacturer of the digital level (Smart Tool), but use it in their product.

Hither is a link to another identify that sells the "Smart Tool". http://www.speedpartz.com/smarttool.htm

What I did was build a device that uses a "Smart Tool" but like the Smart Racing unit of measurement. In fact, physically, it's in between CJS57's deal with a level and the more sophisticated Smart Racing guess. The deal I built is used only similar outlined in the Smart Racing manual, which is on their website.

Your thoughts on the toe in measurement will work quite well. Recollect that the toe in spec in the shop manual is total for both front tires. So if you measure information technology relative to a line parallel to the auto's length, the spec is half that (since it's for one wheel).


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Re: Dwelling front alignment.....and brain surgery
08-10-05 06:37 PM - Post#754212    
In response to Rick_L

Well I got habitation and with my wife's help we tried out my thought of using a laser level to cheque the toe aligning and I discovered that my gear up by eye balling it was off by .25" YIKES!!!
The auto was toed in by that much, not good. The front measured 69.125 and the rear edge measured 69.375.
I am not sure that the laser leval can be used to set the adjustments but it sure can be used to check them.
Adjacent I will make upwardly a form that fits the rear tire snug so that the lazer level will exist in the verbal aforementioned location on the right rear equally it is on the left rear instead of just using a angle to set it in the middle of the rear cycle. I will mount it to a metallic "T" square that I add a right angle to the front then snug forth side the tire.
Another affair I discovered is using this I can cheque to see if my rear is set up in the heart of the frame or off. Mine is off past between .0625" and .125" out on the driver's side, I'll need to reset this likewise once I make up the jig and take some other measurement to exist absolutely certain that information technology is really off.
Bob

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/222599
To be born a Redneck is past hazard, to alive as one is by choice!
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Re: Home front end alignment.....and brain surgery
08-12-05 08:50 AM - Post#754213    
In response to HYPR

Bob.......

Good post and good thinking.

Yous'll observe that unless its a very good laser tool you volition accept besides broad a line shooting the wheelbase of a vehicle and also the line gets a little ragged later on almost six feet or then.

Iv jackstands forming a rectangle around the machine with fishing line pulled taut front end to rear each side and use a digital or dial caliper from the string in to the rim edge. You lot volition then run across if the front end is foursquare with the rear as you set the cord (southward) on each side exactly parallel with the rear rims....(use 9 and three o'clock on the rims).... this assumes the rear stop housing is not bent.


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